Posts Tagged ‘Full Court Press’

Dupont Cidre de Givre

Monday, October 20th, 2008

This one’s also from a few days ago.

Maria and I stopped for a bite and a cider at Sbrocco, the newest offering from Full Court Press, the guys that brought you El Bait Shop and the Red Monk, among others. Sbrocco is a wine bar that exudes class. It does so in a remarkably inviting way, with salvaged doors and stained glass and classic jazz in the air. I was most impressed by the twenty wine taps that serve a variety of bottles using carbon dioxide. This system is sleek and ensures the wine is always as fresh as possible.

I don’t really drink wine, but never fear! They were thinking of me when they made the beer list, filling it with Unibroue and Lindemann’s and Dupont ciders. (They also have a few less interesting beers.)

The food at Sbrocco is quite tasty. The interesting selections are also surprisingly inexpensive. They are clearly aiming to bring in young people. We shared the Grilled Portabella and Zucchini Pasta Bake with Smoked Provolone. The cheese was good and the smokiness matched the mushroom and slight spiciness of the tomato sauce. I also had a cup of Roasted Acorn & Butternut Squash Bisque which was nutty and creamy and wonderful. Maria had the salad with Candied Pecans, Goat Cheese, Apples, and Lemon Sage Vinaigrette.

To pair with this we got the Cidre de Givre from the Domaine Dupont cidery and distillery. This is unrelated to Brasserie Dupont, makers of Saison Dupont. Domaine Dupont has made calvados for more than thirty years on their fourth generation farm.

Le Givre is the eis cider made from Bouché Brut. Eis cider, like eisbock and unlike eiswine, is produced by freeze distillation of a finished product. It concentrates the flavors and the alcohol, but will also make any problems that much more offensive. It must be done with care.

Le Givre pours a lusciously opal amber-copper with hints of foam. It is somehow much lighter on top than on bottom, almost a straw. The aroma is thick, mostly fresh apples and cider, with some caramel and a hint of smoke.

A rich, almost syrupy beer. Strongly sweet but not at all cloying. I get a whole fruit apple sweetness with a strong alcohol warming. There is a dance of flavors: spices like clove and cinnamon, some smokiness, and a strong, lingering, pleasant cider flavor.

This cider is intense yet muted. It is strongly sweet and alcoholic, but remains elusively subtle. A joy to drink.

++Domaine Dupont Cidre de Givre 2005

RateBeer: 4.4